Clubby and not at all stuffy, this is the domain of chef Marcus Wareing, a former boxer from Lancashire. The restaurant serves nouvelle French food in the grand tradition of Wareing's mentor and London's hottest chef, Gordon Ramsay. You'll find reasonably priced food prepared with technical precision and a touch of whimsy, served in a sleek, opulent setting. It's best to order the chef's six-course tasting menu to appreciate Wareing's culinary ambitiousness. You'll be dazzled with everything from marinated foie gras to an apple-and-artichoke salad, from Bresse pigeon in a truffle confit to a Valhrona chocolate fondant. We've delighted in all the dishes we've sampled here, from the eggplant caviar to the crisp roast sea bass paired with caramelized endive and plump oysters.