It's vast, it's convivial, and it's fun. Giovanni Quaglino, from Italy's Piedmont, established a restaurant here in 1929, and the personalities who paraded through in ermine and pearls could fill a between-the-wars roster of who's who in Europe. In 1993, restaurateur and designer Sir Terence Conran brought the place into the postmodern age with a vital new decor -- eight artists were commissioned to decorate the massive columns supporting the soaring ceiling. A mezzanine with a bar features live jazz on Friday and Saturday nights and live piano music the rest of the week. An altar in the back is devoted to the most impressive display of crustaceans and shellfish in Britain.

Everything seems to be served in bowls. Menu items have been criticized for their quick preparation and standard format; but considering that on some nights up to 800 people might show up, the marvel is that this place functions as well as it does. That's not to say there isn't an occasional delay. Come for fun, not for culinary subtlety and finesse. The menu changes often, but your choices might include a goat-cheese-and-caramelized-onion tart, roast salmon with cucumber cream, a crab tartlet with saffron, and roasted cod and ox cheek with chargrilled vegetables. The prawns and oysters -- delectable and fresh -- are the most popular items.